As I scanned through a garment rack at the Larchmere Festival, I was surprised to find a beautifully crafted jacket made in the U.S.A. However, the price tag was over$200.00 that most will not pay given our current economy. I, unlike many, understand how good quality garments are made; if I had the currency, I would gladly pay it to give our struggling economy a jolt. Our fashion today is inundated with cheaply made garments that many don’t pay more than $20.00 a pop. This is our new garment economy - fast fashion gone amok.
I recently finished Elizabeth Cline’s book, “Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion” that opened my eyes to our addiction to cheap goods. Cheap fashion in my eyes is crap that is stockpiled in our closets and under our beds. Cline honestly describes the clothing that she bought that was never worn, clogged her closets and open spaces; it was bought only because it was on sale. She took all of her clothes out of storage and did a quick inventory of what she owned: “sixty-one tops, sixty T-shirts, thirty-four tank tops, twenty-one skirts, twenty-four dresses, twenty pairs of shoes, twenty sweaters, eighteen belts, fifteen cardigans and hooded sweatshirts, fourteen pairs of shorts, fourteen jackets, thirteen pairs of jeans, . . . I owned 354 pieces of clothing. Americans buy an average of sixty-four items of clothing a year, a little more than one piece of clothing per week.” Seriously! This is crazy, I thought when I read these statistics.
The above numbers is normal expense. I remember when I worked retail, Macy’s had sales every week. Customers expect sales; moreover, they will not pay full price. Macy’s or Cleveland’s May Company department stores had coupon sales so often that I had customers yell at me “This isn’t on sale or how can I get a coupon?” Our retail establishment has conditioned consumers to buy sale items only. This is nonnegotiable! Quite frankly, why would anyone buy an item at full price when they know it will be marked down next week. What I heard most often was, “We’ll come back next week, it will be on sale.” That’s how confident consumers are.
Cline eloquently described the fashion industry as a “copy cat” outfit where designers and/or manufacturers stake out runways and produce cheap “knock offs.” The new normal to cheap or “fast fashion.” Until I read this book, I didn’t realize there was a term for today’s fashion as “fast fashion.” Because of the quick turn around needed for new, trendy outfits that everyone must have, manufacturers are producing low quality and low grade fabrics. They pill; they fall apart where today’s consumers might wear them a few times then throw them out. No big deal, right! Our land fills are inundated with yesterday’s trends. I wish people would just think before they throw out clothes. At least, everyone should give items to Goodwill.
After reading this book, I found out that Thrift shops have protocol too. Meaning, when you shop at a thrift shop (now I am taking this route), they only keep clothing for a certain amount of time. The tags are color coded; then after a few weeks, the items are pulled from the racks and are baled. These bales are either sold to other countries such as Africa or to companies that take the items and create other uses such as rags. Whatever is not sold is ultimately thrown into landfills. I was dumbstruck. You mean the clothing that I donate for the greater good will accumulate in a landfill? Sometimes other countries such as Africa don’t want these lower grade items because now their residents are having more disposable incomes. They want new fashions like the United States.
Man made fabrics that are not sustainable and are produced using more fuel and resources. Cline’s research stated that if every man, woman, and child in China bought two pair of wool socks, there would be no more wool left in the world (Chapter 7, p. 172). I am worried how or with what materials our products will be made if resources become limited - higher prices! What other resources will be sacrificed to feed our addiction?
Lastly, Cline does give the reader a positive direction for fashion - slow fashion where designers and small boutiques are creating fashions by "repurposing" as “one-of-a-kind” pieces. They are focusing on quality not quantity where you pay a little more but your clothing will last much longer. As a benefit, your clothing will not look like everyone else. I feel there is hope that fast-fashion will become “out” and consumer will embrace items that is made in the U.S. as I described earlier.
Unlike everyone else, I will not go to Walmart to buy cheap products. Once during my lunch hour, I attempted to shop at Walmart thinking I can run in quickly. I stood in my tracks as the crowds filled the aisles. “That’s it,” I thought. It’s not worth saving a few extra dollars by wasting an entire lunch hour in the check out line.
These are the type of decisions we all must do. Look to new outlets for our consumables. Until people decide NOT to shop at these cheap stores will we force retailers to buy and manufacturers to make higher quality products similar to the local food movement. This has empowered farmers to produce and sell accessible food. Furthermore as a society, we become healthier and buying locally helps producers survive well above paycheck to paycheck. This is a win-win.
I definitely recommend this book as an educational tool by informing us about our fashion consumption. I enjoyed the rich statistical analysis on this important issue but it was a little dry where it took me longer to read than normal. I don’t want to dissuade anyone on its importance.
Elizabeth Cline, 2012, “Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion,” (p. 4 & 5, 172).
Larchmere Festival
http://www.larchmere.com/
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